Snapper Snow Blower 5.5 22 Problems? Your Ultimate Fix-It Guide
There is nothing more frustrating than waking up to a blanket of heavy snow, only to find your trusted Snapper 5.5 22 snow blower refusing to start. That critical moment of failure, right when you need it most, is a problem countless owners face. This guide provides the ultimate troubleshooting roadmap to diagnose and resolve every common issue, turning your winter frustration into operational success.
The Snapper 5.5hp 22-inch model is a workhorse, but like any powerful piece of machinery, it requires proper maintenance and care to perform reliably. This comprehensive article will delve into the most frequent problems, from engine starting failures to poor snow-throwing performance, and provide clear, actionable solutions.
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Engine Won’t Start: The Most Common Culprit
An engine that refuses to start is the number one issue for any gas-powered equipment. The reasons are almost always related to a breakdown in one of three key areas: fuel, spark, or air. By systematically checking each component, you can quickly identify and fix the problem.
Do not repeatedly pull the recoil starter if the engine doesn’t fire up after a few tries. This can flood the engine with gasoline, making it even harder to start. Take a methodical approach to diagnose the root cause.
Fuel System Failures: Old Gas is Your Enemy
The most common reason a Snapper 5.5 22 won’t start is stale or contaminated fuel. Gasoline can begin to degrade in as little as 30 days, leaving behind gummy deposits that clog the carburetor’s tiny jets and passages. If you left last season’s gas in the tank, this is likely your problem.
First, safely drain all the old fuel from the tank into an approved container. Replace it with fresh, high-octane gasoline. It’s also critical to consider what type of gas to use; for small engines like this, using an ethanol-free fuel can prevent many future problems related to moisture absorption and corrosion.
If fresh fuel doesn’t solve the issue, the carburetor is the next suspect. A clogged carburetor will starve the engine of the fuel it needs to run. You may notice symptoms like the engine starting for a moment and then dying. Cleaning the carburetor is essential. This involves removing the float bowl at the bottom, cleaning the main jet with a fine wire, and spraying carburetor cleaner through all accessible ports to dissolve varnish and deposits. For a severely clogged carb, a full disassembly and soak in a parts cleaner might be necessary.
Spark Plug and Ignition Woes
If the fuel system is clean, the next step is to check for a strong spark. The spark plug is a consumable item that can become fouled with carbon or simply wear out. A weak or nonexistent spark means the air-fuel mixture won’t ignite.
To test it, carefully remove the spark plug wire and use a spark plug socket to remove the plug. Reconnect the wire, and hold the threaded part of the plug against a metal part of the engine block. When you pull the recoil starter, you should see a bright blue spark jump across the electrode gap. If the spark is weak, orange, or absent, replace the spark plug. It’s an inexpensive part that solves a majority of ignition problems.
If a new spark plug doesn’t produce a spark, the issue could be a faulty ignition coil. The ignition coil transforms the low voltage from the flywheel into the high voltage needed to create a spark. Testing a coil often requires a specialized tester, but visible damage or corrosion on the coil or its connections can be a clear indicator of failure.
Poor Performance: When It Runs But Won’t Throw Snow
Sometimes the engine runs perfectly, but the machine fails at its primary job: moving snow. This is typically a mechanical issue within the auger and impeller system. From weak throwing distance to the auger not spinning at all, these problems often have simple solutions.
Before inspecting any part of the auger housing, always disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any chance of an accidental startup. This is the most critical safety step in snow blower repair.
Shear Pins: The Sacrificial Saviors
If your auger suddenly stops turning after hitting a chunk of ice, a rock, or a hidden newspaper, the most likely cause is a broken shear pin. Shear pins are small bolts designed to break under a specific amount of force. Their purpose is to protect the expensive gearbox from catastrophic damage by failing first.
Inspect the auger shaft for holes where the shear pins should be. If you find a broken one, you must replace it with an exact OEM replacement. Never substitute a regular bolt, as it will not break as intended and could lead to a destroyed gearbox, a much more costly repair. Replacing a shear pin is simple: align the hole in the auger with the hole in the shaft and insert the new pin, securing it with its corresponding cotter pin or nut.
Worn or Loose Belts
The engine transfers power to the auger assembly via a drive belt. Over time, this belt can stretch, crack, or break. A worn or loose belt will slip under load, causing the auger to turn weakly or not at all, especially in heavy, wet snow.
To inspect the belt, you will need to remove the belt cover. Look for signs of glazing (a shiny surface), cracks, or fraying. Check the belt tension; there should be very little slack when the auger is engaged. If the belt is damaged or stretched, it must be replaced. Belt replacement can be a more involved job that may require separating the auger housing from the engine section of the snow blower.
Operational Annoyances and Fixes
Beyond major starting and performance issues, several smaller problems can make using your Snapper 5.5 22 a chore. These include a clogged discharge chute, difficulty with controls, or the machine leaving a layer of snow behind. Addressing these can significantly improve your snow-clearing experience.
Many of these fixes are part of a good seasonal maintenance routine. A well-maintained machine is not only more reliable but also safer to operate.
Clogged Discharge Chute Solutions
Wet, heavy snow is notorious for clogging the discharge chute, causing snow to back up into the auger housing. While it’s tempting to clear it with your hand, this is extremely dangerous and the leading cause of snow blower injuries. Always shut the engine off, wait for all moving parts to stop, and use a chute clean-out tool (or a sturdy stick) to clear the blockage.
To prevent clogging, you can apply a non-stick spray, like a silicone or Teflon coating, to the inside of the chute and auger housing before use. This creates a slippery surface that helps snow slide through more easily. Also, try to take smaller passes in heavy snow and maintain a brisk forward pace to keep the snow moving.
Adjusting the Scraper Bar
If your snow blower is leaving a thin layer of snow on the pavement, the scraper bar at the base of the auger housing may be worn or improperly adjusted. This bar is designed to scrape the surface clean and guide snow into the auger.
You can adjust the height by adjusting the skid shoes on either side of the housing. For a smooth, paved surface, the scraper bar should be set very close to the ground, about 1/8th of an inch. If the scraper bar itself is worn down, it is a replaceable part that can restore the machine’s ability to clear down to the pavement.
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine will not start | Stale fuel or clogged carburetor | Replace fuel, clean carburetor | Medium |
| Engine starts, then dies | Clogged fuel cap vent or carburetor issue | Check cap, clean carburetor | Medium |
| Auger does not turn | Broken shear pin or worn/broken belt | Replace shear pin(s), replace belt | Easy to Hard |
| Weak snow throwing | Loose belt or clogged chute | Adjust belt tension, clear chute | Medium |
| Leaves snow behind | Worn or misadjusted scraper bar | Adjust skid shoes, replace scraper bar | Easy |
| Machine pulls to one side | Uneven tire pressure | Inflate tires to correct PSI | Easy |
Preventative Maintenance: The Key to Reliability
The best way to fix problems with your Snapper 5.5 22 is to prevent them from happening in the first place. A simple, consistent maintenance schedule will ensure your snow blower starts on the first pull and performs powerfully all winter long. The machine’s frame needs to be kept in good condition, as strong as a fence post, to endure the harsh winter conditions.
While this guide focuses on the 5.5/22 model, owners of similar machines, including the larger Snapper 1030, will find many of these maintenance principles universally applicable to their equipment.
End-of-Season Shutdown Procedure
Properly preparing your snow blower for summer storage is the single most important thing you can do for its longevity. Never store the unit with untreated gasoline in the tank.
The best method is to add a quality fuel stabilizer to the tank, run the engine for about five minutes to circulate it through the carburetor, and then shut it off. An even better, more thorough approach is to run the engine completely dry of fuel. This ensures no fuel is left in the carburetor bowl to evaporate and leave damaging deposits. Store the snow blower in a clean, dry area like a garage or shed to protect it from the elements.
Pre-Season Tune-Up
Before the first snowflake falls, give your machine a quick tune-up. Check the engine oil level and change it if it’s dirty or if you didn’t do so at the end of last season. Install a new spark plug for reliable starting.
Inspect the scraper bar, skid shoes, and auger paddles for wear and replace them if necessary. Check the tire pressure and ensure all cables and controls move freely. A small amount of preparation in the fall can save you from a major headache during a blizzard.
