Old MTD Snowblower: Unlock Its Hidden Power or Junk It?
That old MTD snowblower sitting in the corner of your garage is more than just a piece of machinery. It’s a relic from an era when steel was thick and designs were simple. But when the first heavy snow of the season is bearing down, the critical question arises: is this vintage machine a dependable workhorse or a frustrating pile of rust waiting to ruin your day?
Many owners find themselves caught between the sentimental value of a machine that has served for decades and the practical need for reliable snow removal. The truth is, these older MTD models can be both a blessing and a curse. This guide will provide a definitive roadmap to help you assess, repair, and ultimately decide the fate of your old MTD snowblower.
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The Brutal Truth: What to Inspect Before You Invest Time or Money
Before ordering parts or spending a weekend tinkering, a thorough and honest assessment is non-negotiable. A few minutes of inspection can save you countless hours of frustration and wasted money. Focus on the core components that determine whether a restoration project is feasible or foolish.
Frame and Housing: The Skeleton’s Integrity
The first and most obvious check is for rust. While surface rust is common and often just cosmetic, you must look deeper. Pay close attention to the bottom of the auger housing and the frame around the wheels and axle. If you find areas where the metal is soft, flaking, or has holes, the structural integrity may be compromised. This is especially critical, as the frame endures significant vibration and stress during operation.
Engine Health: The Heartbeat of the Machine
An engine that doesn’t run can often be fixed, but an engine with no compression is a boat anchor. A simple compression test is the most crucial diagnostic you can perform. After removing the spark plug, screw a compression tester into the hole and pull the recoil starter several times. A healthy Tecumseh or Briggs & Stratton engine from that era should show a reading of at least 60-90 PSI. Anything significantly lower indicates serious internal wear, likely requiring a costly rebuild that isn’t practical for most.
The Guts: Auger, Impeller, and Gearbox Condition
The business end of the snowblower needs to be in solid shape. Grab the augers and try to wiggle them; excessive play can indicate worn bushings or bearings, which are replaceable. More importantly, check the auger gearbox. If there are visible cracks in the housing or if it feels loose, you could be facing a significant repair. Some gearbox issues can be complex, and as models age, finding a direct replacement can become a real treasure hunt. Problems in this area can sometimes be the cause if your snowblower stalls when the auger is engaged.
Conquering Common Failures: Your Step-by-Step Repair Guide
If the core components pass the inspection, it’s time to tackle the most common issues that plague these older machines. Most repairs are straightforward and require only basic tools and a bit of patience. Getting your machine running reliably often comes down to addressing fuel, spark, and the drive system.
Engine Resurrection: The Path to a First-Pull Start
The vast majority of starting problems on an old MTD snowblower stem from a dirty or clogged carburetor. Old fuel turns to varnish, blocking tiny internal passages and jets. A thorough carburetor cleaning is often all that is needed to bring the engine back to life. Be meticulous when cleaning the main jet, pilot jet, and emulsion tube. A single clogged hole can prevent the engine from starting or cause it to run poorly.
While the carburetor is off, it’s the perfect time to replace old, brittle fuel lines and install a new spark plug. These are inexpensive parts that eliminate common points of failure and ensure the engine is getting clean fuel and a strong spark. A leaky float bowl gasket is another common culprit for fuel-related issues, and a timely replacement can stop the drip for good.
Drive System Overhaul: Restoring Forward Motion
One of the most frequent points of failure in the MTD drive system is the friction disc wheel. This rubber-ringed wheel is the heart of the snowblower’s transmission, and over time, the rubber wears down, causing the machine to slip or fail to move. Replacing a worn friction wheel is one of the most effective repairs you can perform to restore performance. The process involves removing the bottom cover plate, unbolting the hexagonal shaft, and swapping the old, hardened rubber ring for a new one.
At the same time, inspect the drive belts for cracks, fraying, or glazing. Worn belts are a primary cause of weak drive or poor auger performance. Replacing them is a straightforward job that ensures the engine’s power is effectively transferred to the wheels and augers, giving your old machine a new lease on life.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | DIY Solution | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine won’t start | Clogged carburetor, old fuel, bad spark plug | Clean carburetor, replace fuel lines and spark plug | Medium |
| Snowblower won’t move forward | Worn friction disc wheel or drive belt | Replace friction ring and/or drive belt | Medium |
| Auger doesn’t turn | Broken shear pins or stretched/broken auger belt | Replace shear pins and/or auger belt | Easy |
| Engine runs rough or surges | Partially clogged carburetor jets | Thoroughly clean all carburetor passages and jets | Medium |
| Wheels are locked or hard to turn | Seized axle bushings or bearings | Disassemble, clean, and grease axle bushings | Medium-Hard |
The Big Question: Is It a Worthy Investment?
Deciding whether to restore an old MTD snowblower comes down to a simple cost-benefit analysis of time and money versus reward. The undeniable appeal lies in their robust construction. Many of these machines were built with heavy-gauge steel that puts modern, plastic-heavy blowers to shame. Their simple mechanical designs also make them relatively easy to work on.
However, the biggest challenge is parts availability. While common items like belts, friction wheels, and carburetor kits are often still available, model-specific parts like gearboxes or unique linkages can be nearly impossible to find. This is where a specific model like an MTD Snowflite might have a more dedicated following and better parts network than a lesser-known model.
The Case for Restoration
If your machine has a solid frame and a healthy engine, investing $50 to $150 in common wear parts can yield a snowblower that will reliably serve you for many more years. The satisfaction of bringing a classic piece of equipment back to life is a significant bonus. For the cost of a single professional repair on a new machine, you can often completely overhaul an older, better-built one yourself.
When to Let Go
If your inspection reveals a rusted-out frame, a seized engine with no compression, or a shattered gearbox, it is time to walk away. These are catastrophic failures where the cost and difficulty of the repair far outweigh the value of the machine. In such cases, your time and money are better invested in a newer, more reliable snowblower. Comparing the old MTD to other brands like in an Ariens or Craftsman comparison can also provide perspective on what modern machines offer.
Conclusion: A Legacy of Steel and Simplicity
An old MTD snowblower is more than just a tool; it’s a testament to a time of simpler, more robust manufacturing. They represent an opportunity for the mechanically inclined to own a powerful machine for a fraction of the cost of a new one. With a careful inspection and a willingness to perform basic maintenance, that old snowblower can be transformed from a garage ornament into a dependable winter warrior.
By focusing on the key areas of the engine, drive system, and structural frame, you can make an informed decision. For many, the reward of commanding a restored, all-steel machine through deep snow is well worth the effort. That vintage power, once unlocked, can handle winter’s worst for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are parts still available for old MTD snowblowers?
Yes, many parts for older MTD snowblowers are still available. You can find original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts from various online retailers, as well as aftermarket parts which can be a more budget-friendly option. Common replacement parts include belts, spark plugs, shear pins, and carburetor components.
What are the most common problems with old MTD snowblowers?
Common issues with older MTD snowblowers include failure to start, a clogged chute, and problems with the auger not turning. Often, starting problems can be traced back to old fuel, a dirty carburetor, or a bad spark plug. A clogged chute is frequently caused by heavy, wet snow.
How do I perform basic maintenance on my old MTD snowblower?
Basic maintenance for an old MTD snowblower includes changing the oil, replacing the spark plug, and using fresh fuel. It is also important to inspect the belts for wear and tear and to lubricate any moving parts to prevent them from seizing up. Regularly checking and tightening nuts and bolts is also recommended.
What is a fair price for a used, old MTD snowblower?
The value of an old MTD snowblower can vary greatly depending on its age, condition, and features. Prices for used MTD snowblowers can range from around $300 to over $400 for a model in good working condition. Factors like electric start and the size of the clearing width can also affect the price.
My MTD snowblower won’t move forward or backward. What could be the problem?
If your MTD snowblower’s engine is running but the wheels won’t turn, a common cause is a worn or broken drive belt. Another likely issue is a problem with the friction wheel drive system. Over time, the rubber on the friction wheel can wear down, preventing it from making proper contact to propel the snowblower.
Why isn’t my MTD snowblower throwing snow?
A common reason for an MTD snowblower not throwing snow is a clogged discharge chute, often caused by wet, heavy snow. Another possibility is that the shear pins on the auger have broken. These pins are designed to break to prevent damage to the gearbox if the auger hits a hard object. Also, a loose or worn auger belt can prevent the augers from spinning at full speed.
