Bad Penny Tile Installation: The #1 Nightmare & How to Fix It
Penny tiles offer a timeless, classic aesthetic that can elevate any space. Their charming, retro appeal is a top choice for floors and walls in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms.
But this iconic look has a dark side. A bad penny tile installation can quickly turn your design dream into a costly and frustrating nightmare, leaving you with a finish that looks anything but professional.
This guide exposes the common failures in penny tile installation. We will explore how to spot the red flags of a botched job and provide actionable steps to rescue your project from disaster.
You'll Learn About
Why Penny Tile Installation Goes Wrong So Easily
The deceptive simplicity of penny tile is its greatest weakness. The small, round tiles are mounted on mesh sheets, which seems like it would make installation fast and easy. However, this very feature is often the root cause of the most common and glaring errors.
The Deception of the Mesh Sheet
While designed for convenience, the mesh backing is flexible. During installation, these sheets can easily stretch, compress, or sag if not handled with extreme care.
This distortion creates inconsistent spacing between the tiles on adjoining sheets. The result is a floor or wall where the square outline of the mesh sheet is painfully obvious, ruining the intended seamless, random pattern.
Subfloor & Wall Preparation: The Unseen Foundation
No tile job is better than the surface it’s laid on. This rule is ten times more critical for penny tiles. Due to their small size, any imperfection in the subfloor or wall—tiny bumps, dips, or waves—will be magnified and telegraphed directly to the finished surface.
A perfectly flat and level substrate is not a recommendation; it is an absolute requirement. Failure to properly prepare the surface guarantees an uneven, unprofessional result that is difficult and costly to fix later.
Thinset Mortar: Too Much or Too Little
The amount of thin-set mortar used is a delicate balancing act. Too little thin-set results in poor adhesion, and tiles can become loose or even pop off over time.
Conversely, applying too much mortar is the most frequent amateur mistake. The excess thin-set oozes up through the grout joints, filling the spaces where grout should go. This not only makes grouting a nightmare but can also alter the final grout color and create a weak, messy finish.
The Grouting Catastrophe
Penny tiles have a very high grout-to-tile ratio, meaning the grout is just as much a part of the visual landscape as the tiles themselves. This makes the grouting process exceptionally unforgiving.
Common issues include grout haze that dulls the tiles, pinholes from air bubbles, and inconsistent color due to improper mixing or cleaning. These small mistakes become glaring flaws across the large surface area of the grout.
Spotting the Red Flags: Is Your Penny Tile Installation Bad?
A bad installation is more than just a minor cosmetic issue. It can affect the longevity and durability of your surface. Here are the most obvious signs that your penny tile job is subpar.
Visible Sheet Lines: The “Grid” Effect
This is the most heartbreaking sign of a poor installation. Instead of a beautiful, uniform field of circles, you can clearly see the square and rectangular outlines of the individual sheets.
This “grid effect” happens when the installer fails to properly space the sheets, pushing them too close together or leaving gaps. Once the mortar has cured, this is nearly impossible to fix without a complete tear-out.
Uneven Tiles & “Lippage”
Run your hand (or a credit card) across the tile surface. If you feel the edges of some tiles sitting higher than their neighbors, you have a problem known as “lippage.”
Lippage not only looks terrible but also makes the surface difficult to clean, as dirt gets trapped on the raised edges. In a floor installation, it can even be a tripping hazard.
Grout Disasters: Haze, Pinholes, and Inconsistent Color
Look closely at the grout lines. A dull, chalky film on the surface of the tiles is grout haze, caused by residual grout that wasn’t properly cleaned off during installation.
Tiny holes or “pinholes” in the grout are signs of air bubbles from improperly mixed grout. Patches of lighter or darker grout color indicate that the grout was mixed with inconsistent water ratios or that too much water was used in the final cleaning wipe-down, pulling pigment out.
Crooked or “Wavy” Lines
Even though the individual tiles are round, they create lines and patterns. Stand back from the wall or floor and see if these lines are straight and consistent.
If the rows of tiles appear to meander or wave, it means the sheets were not laid perfectly straight. This is a subtle but significant sign of a rushed or careless installation.
Your Rescue Mission: How to Fix a Botched Penny Tile Job
Discovering flaws in your new tile work is discouraging, but not all is lost. Some issues can be fixed with targeted efforts, while others may require a more drastic approach. The first step is a realistic assessment of the damage.
| Problem | Severity | Potential Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Grout Haze | Low | DIY Fix: Use a specialized haze remover and non-abrasive pads. This is often successful if addressed quickly. |
| Grout Pinholes/Cracks | Low | DIY Fix: Apply a small amount of matching fresh grout into the holes or cracks and wipe away the excess carefully. |
| Individual Uneven Tile | Medium | Pro/DIY: A single high tile can be carefully chipped out and replaced. This requires precision and the right tools. |
| Visible Sheet Lines | High | Professional Help: In some cases, the grout lines between sheets can be cut out and regrouted for a better blend, but this is not always effective. |
| Widespread Lippage | Very High | Full Replacement: If many tiles are uneven, the only true fix is to tear out the entire installation and start over. |
Step 1: Assessing the Damage – Repair or Redo?
Be honest about the scope of the problem. Minor cosmetic issues like grout haze or a few pinholes are often fixable. These can typically be addressed with the right cleaning products or a bit of targeted regrouting.
However, widespread issues like visible sheet lines and significant lippage are fundamental installation errors. These problems are embedded in the thin-set and cannot be truly fixed without removing the tiles. At this point, you must decide if you can live with the flaws or if a full redo is necessary.
Step 2: Conquering Grout Problems
For grout haze, avoid harsh acids at first. Start with a pH-neutral grout haze remover and a microfiber cloth. If that fails, move to a stronger, sulfamic acid-based cleaner, following the manufacturer’s directions precisely.
If the grout is cracked, discolored, and full of pinholes, a simple touch-up might not be enough. In these severe cases, you may need to learn how to remove grout from penny tile entirely and start fresh.
Step 3: The Last Resort – When You Must Start Over
Deciding to tear out a brand-new installation is a painful choice. It means losing the money spent on materials and labor. Unfortunately, for fundamental flaws like the grid effect or severe unevenness, it is the only path to a satisfactory result.
Keep in mind that the tile is just one part of the system. A complete redo will impact the overall cost of a shower installation, as waterproofing membranes and other components may also need to be replaced.
Prevention is the Best Cure: A Pro’s Guide to Perfect Penny Tile
The secret to a flawless penny tile installation lies in meticulous preparation and patience. Rushing any step will lead to visible errors. Follow these professional guidelines to ensure success from the start.
Choosing the Right Thin-Set and Trowel
Use a high-quality white thin-set mortar, especially when using a light-colored grout. Gray thin-set can sometimes discolor light grouts. The consistency should be like smooth peanut butter—not too loose and not too stiff.
A 3/16″ V-notch trowel is typically recommended for penny tiles. This size provides good coverage on the back of the small tiles without leaving excessive mortar that will squeeze up through the joints.
The Art of Setting the Sheets
Always dry-fit your sheets first to plan your layout. When you begin setting them in mortar, press them in firmly. Use a grout float or a small piece of wood (a beating block) and a mallet to gently and evenly tap the entire sheet, ensuring every single tile is level and fully embedded in the mortar.
To avoid the dreaded grid effect, slightly offset the sheets in a running bond pattern. This is a similar concept to how a professional considers a 1/2 vs 1/3 tile offset for subway tiles. After placing a sheet, take the time to manually adjust individual tiles along the edges to blend the seams.
Grouting Like a Champion
After the thin-set has fully cured, it’s time to grout. Pack the grout into the joints firmly, approaching from multiple directions to ensure there are no air pockets. Wait the recommended amount of time before starting the cleanup.
Use a damp, not wet, grout sponge for the initial cleanup. Use very little pressure and rinse the sponge frequently in clean water. This multi-step process is crucial for preventing grout haze and pulling pigment from the grout lines.
Don’t Let a Bad Installation Ruin Your Penny Tile Dream
A successful penny tile installation is a testament to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The charm of this tile style is only fully realized when the execution is flawless.
Understanding the potential pitfalls—from subfloor prep to the final wipe-down—is the key to avoiding them. By recognizing the signs of a bad job and focusing on prevention, you can ensure your project results in the beautiful, timeless surface you envisioned.
